Ramadan In Dubai and Abu Dhabi – Stay Thirsty, My Friends
When in Rome, do as the Romans do… or when in the United Arab Emirates, do as the Emiratis do.
But, when the desert heat pushes the mercury into triple digits, and it is the season of Ramadan, it can be difficult to uphold that mantra.
The Muslim tradition of refraining from eating, drinking, smoking, and even chewing gum in public, from sunrise to sunset during the holy days of Ramadan is strictly enforced in the UAE, with harsh punishment for non-compliance. The observance of these prohibitive rules and laws of Ramadan applies to tourists, as well, although there are merciful exceptions to these laws. For example, resorts will serve food and non-alcoholic drink all day, but it must be consumed on the premises only. A small number of designated cafes may be open for non-Muslims, but will be shrouded in curtains and tucked away in shopping malls to cater to tourists and ex-pats.
On our first morning in Dubai, we sat down to enjoy a hearty American style breakfast at the beachfront restaurant at the architectural wonder – the ocean wave shaped Jumeirah Beach Hotel. As soon as I sat down, I was instantly captivated by a view across the beach. The mystical sail-shaped Burj Al Arab Hotel sets on its own island just a few yards away. The first rays of daylight dancing against the glass-walled building together with the crystal waters gently splashing against the white sand beach distracted me from Joel and Jonathan’s conversation about the plans for the day.
“We’re all going to need to eat a big breakfast and make sure we drink a lot of water. You know, once we leave the resort, we won’t be able to eat or drink a thing until sunset,” Joel reminded us.
“You know I never miss a meal! Except for today. We need to be respectful and law abiding, so we cannot eat or drink in front of anyone. I already feel guilty by eating and drinking now. I want to immerse myself into the culture and fast until sunset,” I said.
As we exited the sanctuary of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, I placed the black shayla on my head and wrapped it carefully around my neck. The delicate, intricate embroidery matched my abaya perfectly. The blessing of a cool breeze caused my traditional Islamic dress to flow in the wind, mercifully cooling my body from the sweltering Arabian Desert heat. I joined Joel and Jonathan who are both donning the traditional kandourah, ghutra, and egal, (or as Joel calls it, a “sheik suit”) as we await our taxi’s arrival.
After a long day of touring the Grand Mosque, the Emerati Palace, and other sites in Abu Dhabi, we sought refuge at the Marina Mall. By this time, the scorching heat was taking its toll. There were at least four more hours of this unrelenting heat before sunset when we could break our fast and we were all starting to feel the effects of dehydration.
“I’m so hungry and thirsty. I really don’t think I can last much longer,” Joel said.
“I’m feeling light-headed, too, but I’m sure everything is closed,” Jonathan said.
“Let’s find the restrooms. I can help you out,” I said.
Joel and Jonathan looked at me inquisitively, but then followed me toward the restroom area. We followed the signs to the restrooms which led us down a long hallway. I stopped and turned around to make sure no one else was in the hall.
“I have contraband water in my purse,” I whispered, as I reached into my bag. “Here, slip this under your kandourah and go into the restroom,” I instructed as I stealthily handed the bottle to Joel.
They both burst out in suppressed laughter, and scurried into the restroom while I stood watch. Shameful emotions swept over me and I was suddenly flooded with memories of my Catholic guilt when I would sneak a bite of bacon on a Friday during Lent. Although my husband and son were not breaking any laws and were respectfully hiding their water consumption from sight, I could not help think that I was an accomplice to a crime.
That evening, we were broke fast on a sunset dinner cruise around the Dubai Marina. The spectacular views of the opulent city were enhanced by the soothing traditional music and the euphoria enhancing aromas of the iftar buffet that we would soon be allowed to enjoy. When the sun finally fell beyond the horizon, we were each offered a glass of water and three dates to break our fast. This ritual is in keeping with the tradition of thee Prophet Mohammed as this is how he broke his fast. We were then escorted to the buffet table which consisted of plates of curried meats, kebabs, and a variety of rice-based dishes.
The next morning, we all woke up still feeling full from my overindulgence at iftar. We all ate a very light breakfast, but drank our fill of water so as to sustain us through another day of sightseeing.
After a visit to the American University in Dubai where Jonathan studied and the Burj Khalifa, and other sites, we were again starting to feel the effects of the heat.
Jonathan suggested that we go to The Mall of the Emirates. He explained that it is unlike any mall in the U.S. and it is also has a ski resort with real snow right inside the mall!
“Let’s get on the Metro and head right over. Just the image of a snow covered hill in my mind makes me long for winter!” I said as I wiped my brow.
We walk around the mall for an hour or so, taking in the palace-like atmosphere.
“I should have eaten more at breakfast. I need to eat something, anything,” Joel said.
“I’m super hungry and thirsty, too,” Jonathan said.
“Seriously? Again? I’m sorry, guys, but I forgot to pack a water bottle today,” I said. I was hungry and thirsty, too, but that darn Catholic guilt had me in its grasp.
We continue to walk around the mall and stumbled upon the Food Court. From first glance, all of the restaurants were closed and the chairs were set on top of the tables. Just when the acceptance of defeat was upon us, like an oasis after a long journey through the desert, the unmistakable glow of the golden arches of a McDonald’s appeared!
“I am so getting some chicken nuggets!” exclaimed Jonathan.
Joel and Jonathan quickly ordered their food and starting walking away.
“Hey! Where are you guys going?” I asked.
“The bathroom, of course” Joel said. Then off they went while I waited patiently.
After about 10 minutes, they both emerged, their hunger finally satiated.
“Okay, so you may think that eating chicken nuggets and fries in the toilet stall is a bit unusual and some may even think it’s gross, but clearly, we were not the only ones doing it. The trash can in the bathroom was overflowing with McDonald’s wrappers!” said Joel.
Those five days in the UAE demonstrated the power of travel and the opportunities it provides to learn firsthand about other cultures, traditions, and religions. Sure, we could have stayed at the resort and sat on the beach, eating and drinking to our hearts’ content. Or, we could have sought out non-Muslim owned establishments for lunch which were permitted to serve food and drink throughout the day (provided that they kept the restaurant shrouded in drapes). By our failed attempts to try to refrain from eating and drinking under the harsh conditions of the desert sun, we all gained a renewed appreciation for the discipline and loyalty of the Muslims in the world who observe Ramadan.