Czech This Out!
One’s ethnicity and culture is central to the way we think about food. The culinary traditions and special meals that we grew up with are an important part of our identity and the foundation of our memories. Just the aroma of a beloved food can launch us to Grandma’s kitchen or remind us of the familial bonds embedded in our soul. Strong emotional and cultural bonds permeate through and inform our relationship with food.
I have observed that in most families, one side of the family’s culture tends to shine a bit brighter than the other. When folks ask me about my ethnicity, I say I am Czech, although that is only half true. My mother was, as she would proudly say, “I’m 100% Czech”, which would make me half Czech. Not to dismiss my father’s nearly 100% British side, but there were no British traditions practiced nor special ethnic food served in our home. However, the Czech culture was fully embraced through music, language, and food.
Although my mother was a second generation Czech, her childhood was not much different from those of the generation before her who emigrated from Bohemia and Moravia and settled in rural south central Nebraska. Those immigrants held onto their culture with tightened fists as they were committed to preserving the customs, culture, and ethnic identity of the “old country.” Only Czech was spoken at home and English was not learned until the children started school when they were seven years old. At that time, the primary vehicle of attaining the goal of cultural preservation may have been the language, but the lasting bond that keeps the culture alive today is food.
A few years ago, I joined a Facebook page called “Nebraska Bohemians”. Its membership is open to anyone who has an affinity to the culture and traditions of the Czech heritage of Nebraska. Because the name “Bohemian” was used to refer to all of the early Czech immigrants, it also includes those from the Moravia and Silesia regions, as well.
It warms my heart to visit the page every day to read postings from those who are making the effort to preserve our heritage through language, stories, and food. The topics of postings vary from cherished photographs to announcements of Czech festivals in the area to Czech language education, but the overwhelming majority of posts center on food. Folks are constantly asking for recipes, sharing recipes, and posting photos of their latest attempt at recreating Grandma’s houska, rohliky, or kolache. Although so many factors define a culture, it is the food that is the strongest thread that connects us Nebraska Bohemians. When I think of my Czech heritage, the first thing that comes to mind is kolache.
Kolache (pronounced “KO-lah-chee”) are round, slightly sweet yeast-based fruit topped pastries. The most traditional and popular toppings are apricot, poppy seed, cherry, and prune. The recipe was brought over with the Moravian and Bohemian immigrants who settled in the United States, primarily in the Midwest and Texas, in the late 19th century and early 20th century. They are served throughout the day and ubiquitous throughout Nebraska Czech communities. The tradition of serving kolache in Nebraska Czech homes, weddings, and parties is still alive and well.
Kolache are often confused with Danishes, understandably so, but the Danish has a light, flaky consistency, whereas kolache have a dense texture and are not as sweet. The Czechs who immigrated to Texas in the late 1800s have, over the years, twisted the traditional recipe and began substituting the fruit fillings with sausage. Furthermore, rather than placing the filling on top, the sausage is encased within the dough. Although the Texas Czechs’ version of the kolache (pronounced “pigs-in-blanket) is similar in nature, it is actually a klobasniky (pronounced “klo-bah-SNEEK-ee”). Although I have never tasted one, I have heard they are quite delicious. As a kolache purist, however, I beg of you to refrain from calling those savory rolls a kolache! My mother must be rolling over in her grave knowing that the Texas Czechs have morphed the precious kolache into something entirely unfamiliar. We Nebraska Czechs are very protective of our sweet treat! Some things just shouldn’t change.
I have attempted to make kolache several times over the years, experimenting with various recipes (unfortunately, I could not find my mother’s original recipe after her death). After many trials, I have finally found one that brings my thoughts and emotions close to my loving mother. Food has that unique ability to help us remember special moments and provide a connection to our loved ones, whether they are still with us or not.
My kolache recipe can be found under the “Recipes” tab.